Extreme Layover: Latvia

Extreme Layover
I would’ve booked a longer stay in Riga, however at the time (October 2020), Latvia was the country on my itinerary with the strictest entry requirements, shutting out even many of its European neighbors. I figured if I’d get any hassle trying to enter the country, that officials might be a little more lenient with someone simply “passing through” on a layover. My ticket from Lithuania had me landing in Riga at 6:35AM and wheels up for Helsinki that same day at 11:35PM. I pretty much had a full day to run around and enjoy Riga…that is, if I’d even be able to leave the airport.

The crack-of-dawn Vilnius to Riga flight on airBaltic was almost empty.

Welcome to Riga! A stranger invited himself to my selfie.

Midnight Express
Thankfully, my only obstacle was a lone-worker stationed at the exit of the terminal who stopped me to ask where I was from. “Slovakia,” I murmured, as he waved me through. Whew, that was a close one!

It was still dark and nothing was open at 7AM, so I opted for an early check-in and morning nap before waking at 10 to get out and see the city. First stop was breakfast at Domini Canes, where I enjoyed an awesome omelette with salmon and toast. What a great presentation! It was just the meal I needed to give the me the energy for a day in the city.

I immediately caught the vibe in Riga. While geographic neighbors to Lithuania, Riga seemed just a little bit more alive than Vilnius. It was just a smidge rougher around the edges and just seemed to have a little more character. I spent the few minutes left of the morning traversing parks and passing by monuments. Riga is a gorgeous town and the fall weather was perfect – just mildly brisk.

I barely made it to Domini Canes in time for breakfast. The plate was fantastic!

The Freedom Monument honors soldiers killed during the Latvian War of Independence.

It’s considered an important symbol of the freedom, independence, and sovereignty of Latvia.

Beautiful parks and canals…still green, but not for l long. Fall is in the air.

Market Watch
I headed to Riga Central Market which was quite a sight. Most of the vendors and stalls were housed inside a collection of giant curved buildings that resembled airplane hangars. Goods were arranged and organized according to category: The meat in one section, fish in the other, produce, grains, and so on. I noticed all the butchers were female. The absence of masks concerned me a little. I wore mine.

There were also some stalls outside of the market’s buildings.

Inside: A very well organized, clean and abundant marketplace.

It was obvious the ladies ran the meat department.

Gotham City
Leaving the market, I couldn’t help but see a giant and old, magnificent skyscraper towering above the neighborhood. Its sharp lines and copper colors drew me closer – it looked like something out of Gotham City and I just had to take a closer look – I had nothing else to do! How pleased I was when I discovered you could buy a ticket to ride the elevator to the top-floor observation deck. I’m in!

This ornate old beauty drew me right in.

The Latvian Academy of Sciences Building was constructed between 1951 and 1961.

It’s the Riga Radio and TV Tower, the tallest tower in the European Union!

The building was financed by the newly established kolkhozes in Latvia. But as further expenses increased, “voluntary donations” were deducted from the salaries of the Latvian rural population.

The building is decorated with several hammer and sickle symbols as well as Latvian folk ornaments and motifs. The spire was originally decorated with a wreath and a five pointed star, which was removed after Latvia regained independence in 1991. At meters tall, it was the first skyscraper in the republic and was the tallest building until the construction of the Swedbank Headquarters in Latvia, and at the time, one of the highest reinforced concrete buildings in the world. Source: Wikipedia.

Buildings, Statues, Bridges, Castles, Cake and Lemonade
I spent the rest of the afternoon meandering around the old town, admiring all that was laid out for a tourist like me to see. I was still recovering from the recent transatlantic flight, so I took it easy, stopping to rest on park benches, enjoying a pastry and coffee in the square and eventually being pulled in to The Cuba Cafe for a raspberry-vanilla lemonade.

A small bridge is loaded with lovers’ padlocks on each side. The lock represents the couple’s love, as it will stay there for all of eternity; the keys to the lock dramatically hurled into the body of water under the bridge.

Latvian coats of arms on the side of Jacob’s Barracks building.

Powder Tower: originally a part of the defensive system of the town.

“The Three Brothers” is a building complex consisting of three houses, that together form the oldest complex of dwelling houses in Riga. Each house represents various periods of development of dwelling house construction.

Ramdom armadillo statue climbing stairs.

The architecture alone in Riga is worth the visit.

House of the Blackheads was erected during the first third of the 14th century for the Brotherhood of Blackheads, a guild for unmarried merchants, shipowners, and foreigners in Riga.

I never tired of getting lost in those colorful cobblestone corridors.

The raspberry-vanilla lemonade probably contained 10,000 calories, but it was good!

Night Moves
Back at the hotel while resting up for my 11:35 flight to Helsinki, a fellow traveler-friend from Facebook sent me a message that he, too, was in Riga. 20 minutes later we were ordering Latvian cuisine at a local joint called Valtera. Thumbs up for this place, who sources all local ingredients for their ever-changing seasonal menus. I had the best ceviche of my life before the main course of venison filet arrived. I had to skip dessert and ask for the check – it was time to say goodbye and grab my car to the airport. #151 was a winner!